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FULL TEXT EXTRACTION: LA Taco – SGV Dumplings
URL: https://lataco.com/have-you-ever-been-frightened-by-a-dumpling-j-gold-on-the-san-gabriel-valley
Extracted: 2026-01-10T19:55:36.206482Z
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PAGE 1: 'Have You Ever Been Frightened by a Dumpling?' ~ J. Gold on the San Gabriel Valley ~ L.A. TACO
URL: https://lataco.com/have-you-ever-been-frightened-by-a-dumpling-j-gold-on-the-san-gabriel-valley
Words: 2,392
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TACOS ‘Have You Ever Been Frightened by a Dumpling?’ ~ J. Gold on the San Gabriel Valley By Tien Nguyen 3:14 PM PDT on July 26, 2018 Share on Email Share on Facebook Share on X (formerly Twitter) Share on Reddit Via City of Gold [dropcap size=big]I[/dropcap]s heaven a San Gabriel Valley strip mall? Jonathan Gold might’ve volunteered that it is. Jonathan logged a significant percentage of his annual mileage exploring the boulevards and avenues of the San Gabriel Valley, and some of his most wonderful writing came about as he championed the area’s enormously diverse restaurants. It was apparent in his reviews how much respect he had for these places, a respect rare in mainstream media back when he first started writing about food and not quite as common as we’d like to see in today’s major publications. He obsessed over soup dumplings; he admired a proper pho broth. The skill required to shave a bowlful of noodles from a clump of raw dough, or to roll a proper beef roll, did not escape his attention. And maybe most importantly, Jonathan was pretty damn funny, so if there was a restaurant with a dumpling the size of softball, you could count on him to have a field day with it. Kindly, of course: Jonathan was the sort of critic aware enough of his privilege to know that whether a joke uplifts or cuts often depends on who’s delivering the punch-line. The number of reviews Jonathan filed restaurants over his career is staggering; if you organized them all into an anthology, you’d well have a recent history of the region. Here are a few choice quotes — or excerpts, rather, because it’s near impossible to pull a Jonathan quote without pulling in everything else around it — from a few of his jaunts to the SGV. Golden Deli Banh Mi. About the mini-malls of Las Tunas Drive, in a piece co-written with Laurie Ochoa The heart of the Las Tunas eating district is made up of essentially two mini-malls, cater-corner from each other on each side of Las Tunas at Mission Drive. Mini-malls may be ugly and undistinguished, strings of small business that have little in common with each other, but they are attractive compared to the alternative--a city becoming a "revitalized" theme-park version of itself, stuffed with chain stores. At their best, mini-malls can make dreams come true: an opportunity for the undercapitalized businessman with a knack for shish kebab or Hainanese chicken rice, an opportunity for neighborhood residents to explore a world of cuisines. Inside the self-contained world of the Las Tunas Plaza, for instance, its parking lot almost always filled to capacity, three excellent restaurants, one right after the other, serve the food of Indonesia, Taiwan and Vietnam. About drawing inspiration from the SGV When the big Chinese food mall San Gabriel Square was young, the most popular restaurant was probably Tung Lai Shun, inspired by a famous Islamic restaurant in Beijing and serving a style of food we had never seen here before. I used to take visiting cookbook writers to Tung Lai Shun — I was convinced that Richard Olney would find hints of Provence in the plush braised lamb and that Fannie Farmer auteur Marion Cunningham might find inspiration in the flatbreads. (They didn't, but it in no way diminished my admiration.) About Omar’s, or: the world There has never been a local restaurant quite like Omar's, a few tables squeezed into what used to be the Taiwanese noodle joint MaMa's. It specializes in Islamic Uyghur cooking, a cuisine that more closely resembles the cooking of Uzbekistan and Afghanistan than it does anything you might think of as Chinese — Central Asian cooking approached from the East rather than the West. When you eat Mrs. Omar's Uyghur cooking, you begin to understand the interconnected nature of the world. Tan Cang Newport Seafood via Yelp. About the single-dish restaurant My first restaurant column for The Times, written when I was still a music writer who answered his phone "Guns N' Rosesdesk," was about the concept of single-dish restaurants, places like Lawry's, Shiro and Philippe, whose menus may be as long as a remix of "November Rain" but which might as well serve just the one thing they are famous for. I was writing then about El Parian in the Pico-Union district, still the best place to go in Los Angeles for a bowl of Jalisco-style birria, but the single-dish principle is universal. As a waiter at the original Palm was once reported to have said, "Sure, I'll bring you a menu. But first, tell me how you'd like us to cook your steak." The Asian swath of the San Gabriel Valley is, of course, a hotbed of single-dish restaurants, from the spicy fried lobster at Tan Cang Newport Seafood to the Beijing duck at Beijing Duck House, the spring rolls at Golden Deli and the roast catfish at Phong Dinh. Din Tai Fung in Arcadia is where you go for xiao long bao, soup dumplings, although the menu lists dozens of other things; 101 Noodle Express in Alhambra is where you go for flaky, crunchy beef rolls, although it opened as a restaurant dedicated to the cult of De Zhou chicken, a famous dish from Shandong. Hui Tou Xiang Noodles House is a tiny new restaurant in a San Gabriel mini-mall, a few steps from the only restaurant in town serving a proper version of Nanking duck, and right next to Luscious Dumplings, an insanely popular noodle shop beloved for its crusty pan-fried dumplings. [...] But what you are here for are the titular hui tou, an invented name for … Chinese blintzes, more or less: dumpling skins burrito-wrapped around thumb-sized lozenges of pork minced with onions, flattened into oblongs, and pan-fried tawny brown. The pork juices become pressurized, and when you breach the crisp skin with your teeth, they jet across the table or right down at your lap. https://www.instagram.com/p/55cK8Sm7dL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link About preternaturally large soup dumplings SUBSCRIBE TO SKIP ADS ADVERTISEMENT Have you ever been frightened by a dumpling? Truly, genuinely scared? Because the juicy crab and pork buns at Wang Xing Ji — smoking-hot dumplings the size of water balloons, sneakily full of boiling juice — could probably be weaponized. You could deploy them as grenades, I'm pretty sure, lobbing the heavy spheroids over battlements. Or you could employ them as sub-lethal projectiles, splatting them into the enemy at will, although the sticky broth is undoubtedly prohibited in an obscure codicil of the Geneva Conventions. If you were on the other end of such an attack you would die happy, with sweet crab and pork juices trickling down your cheek — but you would still die. Does battlefield protocol in such cases include the administering of vinegar and fresh ginger to the fallen along with last rites? I would hope so. About dim sum weather It’s 107 degrees in the San Gabriel Valley sun, a blasting heat with a sulfurous, hydrocarbon edge, and the sweating hordes packed inside the lobby of the new King Hua huddle under the one vent in the room that even promises a bit of cool, jostling one another for the chance to have their cheeks licked by the hint of a breeze, and muttering threats toward the newcomers, whose entrance is accompanied by 100 cubic feet of stinking, superheated air. You stumble outside to the patio waiting area, and just as quickly, the heat forces you back in. After 45 minutes or so, you start to wonder whether any dim sum breakfast could be worth this. The woman at the podium barks out Cantonese numbers with a sneer you imagine more appropriate to a prison guard assigning new inmates their cells. And then your number is called, the crowd parts and you are in an air-conditioned heaven with a dripping glass of ice water in your fist, a pile of fried smelts at your elbow and a tableful of dumplings on the way. Special Lamb with Soup Pot at Nothingness. Photo by Jing S. Via Yelp. About nothing "If you gaze long into an abyss," Nietzsche wrote, "the abyss also gazes into you." If you gaze long into Nothingness, or at least into the San Gabriel Sichuan restaurant of that name, the Nothingness that stares back at you is likely to include steamed whole fish, braised lamb with jelly noodle, and pig feet with hot pepper. The steam rising from hot pots may suggest an infinite void, but only for that moment before the vivid red of the roiling broth becomes visible through the mist. Also, I imagine the empty world does not smell quite so strongly of garlic and toasted chiles. Why is there something rather than nothingness? Because the presumption of nonexistence does not allow for the possibility of live crawfish steamed in chile sauce, while Nothingness the restaurant does. Does existence precede essence? I haven't read a lot of philosophy since college, but I maintain that the snap of the shell, the softness of the flesh, indicate that it probably does. I had assumed that "Nothingness" was a mistranslation of the Chinese characters — it's not — or else a statement of rebellion, a way of identifying itself as The Artist Formerly Known as Huo La La. The people at the restaurant suggest that the name refers to a positive Chongqing attitude toward life. A friend thinks that it may be something like the "no worries" you hear from Australians. I'm still going with Sartre. About you on the Westside It has come to my attention that some of you think I have been paying too much attention to noodle shops in San Gabriel. And I realize, yes, I have been writing quite a bit about San Gabriel noodle shops lately, although in my defense I would point out that some of them are technically in Alhambra or Rosemead. San Gabriel noodle shops are a particular interest of mine, as you have probably determined — a subject I deem to be worth a lifetime of study. You may be wishing that I had spent more time exploring the San Jose–based chain restaurants that populate the new Santa Monica Place, or the murderers' row of bad Italian restaurants in Brentwood, but we all have our weaknesses: This is mine. When I see all the new Dongbei dives that I'll never get to, when I work through all the new dumpling places up on Las Tunas Avenue, I sometimes regret that I can't devote my entire life to the medium of wet, geographically inconvenient dough. I could probably point you to 20 or 30 San Gabriel noodle shops that I haven't had time to write about so far, pho counters and mee slingers and mian merchants, and I suspect each of them is more interesting than the latest bistro to open in Van Nuys. Which is to say, here we are again on Valley Boulevard, in another well-worn mini-mall, which seems mostly deserted yet is full of cars. We are outside Nha Trang, a cramped shop specializing in the noodles of Central Vietnam, and the reason we are outside is because the restaurant itself is slightly smaller than the backseat of a Hyundai — 15, 16 seats tops. RELATED: 'I Am My Truck. My Truck Is Me': Seven Classic Jonathan Gold Quotes About Los Angeles A Cold Email From a Food-Obsessed Teen: Why I Owe Everything to Jonathan Gold ‘Taco Should Be A Verb’ ~ Five Essential Jonathan Gold Quotes About Tacos Jonathan Gold, Ambassador of L.A. Cuisines, Has Died SUBSCRIBE TO SKIP ADS ADVERTISEMENT Share the taco: Share on Email Share on Facebook Share on X (formerly Twitter) Share on Reddit Tien Nguyen @_tiennguyen Tien Nguyen writes about food and culture. She co-authored the New York Times bestseller "L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food" with Roy Choi and Natasha Phan, and her work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times and Lucky Peach. Read More:BEIJING DUCK HOUSE,DIN TAI FUNG,DONGBEI,GOLDEN DELI,HUI TOU XIANG,HUI TOU XIANG NOODLES HOUSE,JONATHAN GOLD,KING HUA,LAS TUNAS PLAZA,LUSCIOUS DUMPLINGS,NHA TRANG,NOTHINGNESS,OMAR'S,PHONG DINH,RICHARD OLNEY,SAN GABRIEL VALLEY,SGV,SHANDONG,TAN CANG NEWPORT SEAFOOD,TIEN NGUYEN,TUNG LAI SHUN,WANG XING JI Stay in touch Sign up for our free newsletter Email SIGN UP More from L.A. TACO FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours There were 10 confirmed sightings of federal agents in Pomona on Thursday. Agents also snatched someone near Hollywood High School on Wednesday. Izzy Ramirez January 8, 2026 Support L.A. TACO Advertisement opens in a new tab. FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity “They didn’t stop the ICE agent, but they stopped me,” said Jose Madera, who followed a vehicle driven wrecklessly by ICE agents, who continue to roam freely nationwide, even after killing 37-year-old Renee Nicole Good in Minneapolis earlier today. Aisha Wallace-Palomares January 7, 2026 CULTURE L.A.’s Young Magicians Are Blowing Minds at Clubs, Pop Video Sets, and Taco Stands Today's budding magicians are trading college and 9 to 5s to work with Chappell Roan, raise money for cancer patients, and perform at Magic Castle, marking a comeback for magic tricks in 2026. 1 Comments Julianne Le January 7, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 See all posts
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PAGE 2: L.A. TACO - Celebrating The Taco Lifestyle in Los Angeles
URL: https://lataco.com/
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Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours Izzy Ramirez FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate Javier Cabral ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity Aisha Wallace-Palomares CULTURE L.A.’s Young Magicians Are Blowing Minds at Clubs, Pop Video Sets, and Taco Stands 1 Comments Julianne Le Stay in touch Sign up for our free newsletter Email SIGN UP ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez ICE DAILY MEMO: Masked and Unmasked Agents Kidnap at Least Eight Around Southern California In First Weekend of 2026 During the first weekend of the year, agents targeted areas nearby a Dollar Tree, PetCo, and more common errand hotspots—even a Wienerschnitzel. Izzy Ramirez Support L.A. TACO Advertisement opens in a new tab. L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF FOOD Goodbye, Horses: Notorious Sunset Strip Restaurant Closes More Than Two Years Since Animal Abuse Controversy At its peak, Horses was doing more than 375 covers a night. Reservations were nearly impossible to snag. 3 Comments Lauren Bethke COMIX Sunday Taquitos #9: There Will Be Blood Stop us if you’ve heard this one before. Sunday Taquitos! Art by Ivan Ehlers. Ivan Ehlers FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Returns to Santa Maria for Fourth Day in a Row; At Least 40 Taken ICE agents were active in Santa Maria in the early morning, plus multiple sightings in Hemet, Thermal and Mecca. Izzy Ramirez See all posts News L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? Julianne Le Daily Memo: The Escalation Continues Before Christmas as ICE, HSI, and Border Patrol Set Record Raids Again Memo Torres, Izzy Ramirez, and Aisha Wallace-Palomares Tear Gas, Censorship, and Medical Neglect At The GEO Owned Adelanto ICE Processing Center Memo Torres Guides L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Lists and Guides of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Julianne Le L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Culture Stories of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF The 25 Best L.A.-Centric Books Of 2025 Mike Sonksen Neighborhoods L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Lexis-Olivier Ray ‘Lead Contamination: An Old Foe Rises from the Ashes of the Eaton Fire,’ Live With Francois Tissot At Caltech’s Earnest C. Watson Lecture Series L.A. TACO STAFF
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PAGE 3: Guides to Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO
URL: https://lataco.com/tag/guides
Words: 488
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Guides L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki January 6, 2026 FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF January 6, 2026 L.A. TACO GUIDES L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Lists and Guides of 2025 This year, L.A. TACO compiled unique lists and guides for our readers to deepen their appreciation for L.A. and the people in it. We shared our top picks for local independent businesses, ways to get involved within your community, and strategies for resisting ICE in Los Angeles. L.A. TACO STAFF December 30, 2025 FEATURED L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Most federal agents and officials would prefer for their actions to go unnoticed, but Memo Torres has dedicated nearly every single day of the past six months to documenting and exposing the often heinous and violent abductions taking place across Southern California. Julianne Le December 30, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Culture Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read culture stories of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 30, 2025 BOOKS The 25 Best L.A.-Centric Books Of 2025 While a book cannot stop evil forces, it can educate us, warn us, and prepare us for what’s coming. The books listed here not only meditate on current events like the Los Angeles wildfires, late stage capitalism, and rising xenophobia, they also reflect our vibrant local literary culture. Mike Sonksen December 30, 2025 NEWS L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 Our reporters were on the ground this past year conducting that street-level reporting necessary for showing what's really happening in our city. L.A. TACO STAFF December 29, 2025 FOOD L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Food Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read food features of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 23, 2025 SPONSORED The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World Metro's 57.6 mile-long A Line offers riders the chance to access foods from so many countries, regions, and cultures. We picked one favorite restaurant from every stop to guide you on an epic eating tour of Los Angeles. 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF December 19, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES The 24 Best Tamales In Los Angeles Banana leaf tamales, tamales filled with savory corn pudding, sweet tamales, and those that can only be described as "unique." Los Angeles really is the best U.S. city for tamal season. L.A. TACO STAFF December 11, 2025 OLDER
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PAGE 4: Taco Reviews, News, and Stories ~ L.A. TACO
URL: https://lataco.com/category/food/tacos
Words: 534
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Tacos FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 TACOS L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . The Oscars of the taco world is going to a taquero who stood up for first responders and inspired us with words of compassion, all while serving a mean surf-and-turf taco in a masa wasteland. 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 22, 2025 TACO MEMBERS ONLY The 69 Best Tacos in Los Angeles, Ranked To live and eat tacos in Los Angeles. As the L.A.'s first and only publication dedicated to finding the best tacos, we are excited to present you all with this year's list. It's the guide to end all other taco guides and it is dedicated to our members who support us and to the best damn city in the world—complete with a map. Happy 69ing. TACOS FOREVER. 4 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 9, 2025 TACOS ICE Raids Delayed L.A.’s Best New Taquería From Opening In Silver Lake. Now It’s Finally Open. “How could I celebrate when people who feed our city couldn’t even work?” the owner of Taquería Frontera said amidst ICE's siege on L.A. Erick Galindo November 18, 2025 STREET VENDING I’m the Daughter of Taqueros—These Are the Lessons They Taught Me I’ll always jump at the opportunity to share that my parents are taqueros. It contextualizes so many crazy anecdotes and justifies my high standards for tacos. Some stories just need to be preceded with “Ok, so my parents sell tacos and … " Alejandra Cid October 29, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES A Guide to The Best Bite at Every Spot in Mercado La Paloma Including one insider's tips for skipping the line at Holbox. Erick Galindo October 28, 2025 MEXICO Mexican Farmers Shut Down Highways In National Strike, Demanding Better Prices For Their Produce The dramatic actions—showing farmers at times dumping their limes and avocados—are a direct challenge to president Claudia Sheinbaum's administration, demanding an end to NAFTA flexibilities and other policies that farmers say are destroying their livelihoods. Javier Cabral October 17, 2025 TACOS Five Killer Tacos To Eat In L.A. On National Taco Day From puffy San Antonio-style tacos from a fine-dining chef to a a blue tortilla from freshly nixtamlized corn that just so happens to be topped in French fries, these are the L.A. tacos to celebrate with. L.A. TACO STAFF October 7, 2025 TACOS Tostadas Over Tasting Menus: Holbox Is North America’s Only 50 Best List Spot Found In a Food Court Amid ICE's terrorizing abductions in L.A.'s Brown-skinned communities, Holbox's #42 spot on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants is a monumental win for its formerly undocumented owner, chef Gilberto Cetina. His celebrated mariscos bar's affordable heirloom-corn tostadas under $20 now rival $100+ tasting menus, spotlighting immigrant grit and cultural resilience against erasure. Javier Cabral October 2, 2025 TACOS How Did Texas Get a Taco-Dispensing ATM Before L.A.? We're just mad we didn't think of it first. Hadley Tomicki September 18, 2025 OLDER
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PAGE 5: ICE Archives ~ L.A. TACO
URL: https://lataco.com/category/ice
Words: 507
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ICE ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours There were 10 confirmed sightings of federal agents in Pomona on Thursday. Agents also snatched someone near Hollywood High School on Wednesday. Izzy Ramirez January 8, 2026 ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity “They didn’t stop the ICE agent, but they stopped me,” said Jose Madera, who followed a vehicle driven wrecklessly by ICE agents, who continue to roam freely nationwide, even after killing 37-year-old Renee Nicole Good in Minneapolis earlier today. Aisha Wallace-Palomares January 7, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Masked and Unmasked Agents Kidnap at Least Eight Around Southern California In First Weekend of 2026 During the first weekend of the year, agents targeted areas nearby a Dollar Tree, PetCo, and more common errand hotspots—even a Wienerschnitzel. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Returns to Santa Maria for Fourth Day in a Row; At Least 40 Taken ICE agents were active in Santa Maria in the early morning, plus multiple sightings in Hemet, Thermal and Mecca. Izzy Ramirez December 30, 2025 FEATURED L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Most federal agents and officials would prefer for their actions to go unnoticed, but Memo Torres has dedicated nearly every single day of the past six months to documenting and exposing the often heinous and violent abductions taking place across Southern California. Julianne Le December 30, 2025 FEATURED At Least 140 People Kidnapped in the 10 Days Leading up to Christmas Eve The data comes from community watch teams and rapid responders. This is the minimum number we’re able to confirm and doesn’t include all arrests and kidnappings, such as at ICE-Check In appointments, etc. Izzy Ramirez December 24, 2025 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Kidnaps Parents From San Bernardino, Riverside and Orange County the day before Christmas Eve Agents in Mecca detained a man inside a grocery store while agents in Fontana kidnapped two people from an apartment complex, among many others. Izzy Ramirez December 23, 2025 ICE The First National Website Dedicated To Documenting ICE License Plates Is Here “Something like the plate tracker helps to encourage and promote legal transparency and legal accountability, especially when they're going around, switching plates, trying to hide, trying to be undetectable,” said Sherman Austin. Aisha Wallace-Palomares December 23, 2025 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: San Bernardino ICE Raid Ends in Another Car Crash ICE once again focused its operations in the Inland Empire with a particular focus on San Bernardino. Other communities outside Los Angeles were also targeted. Izzy Ramirez December 22, 2025 OLDER
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PAGE 6: Food Archives ~ L.A. TACO
URL: https://lataco.com/category/food
Words: 480
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Food FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki January 6, 2026 FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF January 6, 2026 FOOD Goodbye, Horses: Notorious Sunset Strip Restaurant Closes More Than Two Years Since Animal Abuse Controversy At its peak, Horses was doing more than 375 covers a night. Reservations were nearly impossible to snag. 3 Comments Lauren Bethke January 5, 2026 FOOD Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? L.A.'s tamaleros say this holiday season Is pricier than ever. ICE raids, inflation, and tariffs are also cutting demand. Julianne Le December 23, 2025 FOOD L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Food Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read food features of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 23, 2025 TACOS L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . The Oscars of the taco world is going to a taquero who stood up for first responders and inspired us with words of compassion, all while serving a mean surf-and-turf taco in a masa wasteland. 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 22, 2025 SPONSORED The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World Metro's 57.6 mile-long A Line offers riders the chance to access foods from so many countries, regions, and cultures. We picked one favorite restaurant from every stop to guide you on an epic eating tour of Los Angeles. 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF December 19, 2025 NEWS Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Skaf's general manager denied that they cut down the tree to make their restaurant's sign more visible from the street. Lexis-Olivier Ray December 19, 2025 OLDER
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PAGE 7: What Is L.A. TACO? ~ L.A. TACO
URL: https://lataco.com/about
Words: 469
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What Is L.A. TACO? Glad you asked! L.A. TACO celebrates our Los Angeles. This is not the L.A. you see in the movies or on TV. L.A. TACO is an independently owned and operated media platform. We bring our loyal readers and paying members street-level news stories that often cover L.A.'s most marginalized communities, stories that other publications wouldn't dare cover or don't have the credibility to report on. We also feature profiles on L.A.'s underground culture and the everyday heroes who propel our fine city. All of this is anchored by our constantly updated database of the best taquerías and affordable places to eat in this vital, continually evolving metropolis. Our reporting serves L.A.'s working communities outside the confines of L.A.'s trendy neighborhoods, in neighborhoods far south of 10, east of the 710, and north of the 101. For 20 years, we have delivered raw, street-level journalism from all corners of L.A. County to our loyal readers, supporters, members, and advertising partners who share our passion for Los Angeles. L.A. TACO was founded in 2006, stemming from a simple desire to document the things we love about the city (mostly tacos, weed, and graffiti at the time). We coined the term 'Taco Lifestyle' to summarize our philosophy towards experiencing Los Angeles and its vast communities, inspired by the street food that unifies everybody in this city. No matter where you are from and how much this city changes, the one constant will always be tacos and the desire to know where to find the best ones, whether you're a resident or a visitor. Over the years, the site has built a passionate community of readers, members, and contributors who keep the site and its spirit alive. We also organize events for the community, like our annual TACO MADNESS and Birriamania food festivals. We also have our own app to help you find the best tacos vetted by us and closest to you in real time! In 2018, L.A. TACO relaunched as a news-centric platform, bringing our readers an alternative style of hyper-local city coverage. In 2020, L.A. TACO received the first-ever Emerging Voice Award from the James Beard Foundation for our food coverage, which touches on deeper elements around food such as social justice, representation, and immigration. If you love our stuff and are down for our vision of Los Angeles, we invite you to join us and become a paying member to help keep the L.A. TACO dream alive. Our members are the reason we have been able to continue redefining local journalism. Where else will you get free tacos and drinks while helping keep this city's most powerful people accountable? Invest or partner with us, pitch us a story, like us on your socials, and keep checking back for more. Meet Our Team | Contact Us
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PAGE 8: Local News for Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO
URL: https://lataco.com/category/news
Words: 522
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News FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 NEWS L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 Our reporters were on the ground this past year conducting that street-level reporting necessary for showing what's really happening in our city. L.A. TACO STAFF December 29, 2025 FOOD Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? L.A.'s tamaleros say this holiday season Is pricier than ever. ICE raids, inflation, and tariffs are also cutting demand. Julianne Le December 23, 2025 NEWS Daily Memo: The Escalation Continues Before Christmas as ICE, HSI, and Border Patrol Set Record Raids Again In another record setting week, not only have the raids and kidnappings escalated, but so has the recklessness. The week saw more car chases, accidents, children placed in danger and separated from parents, more people detained and released, and new areas of Southern California targeted heavier than before like Antelope and Coachella Valleys. Memo Torres, Izzy Ramirez, and Aisha Wallace-Palomares December 19, 2025 NEWS Tear Gas, Censorship, and Medical Neglect At The GEO Owned Adelanto ICE Processing Center These are some of the horror stories detainees risk telling visitors in fear of guard retaliation. Memo Torres December 19, 2025 NEWS Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Skaf's general manager denied that they cut down the tree to make their restaurant's sign more visible from the street. Lexis-Olivier Ray December 19, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: ICE And Border Patrol Spotted In 18 Cities Taking Street Vendors, Construction Workers, and Crashing Into Vehicles While Chasing People ICE and Border Patrol took, that we know of, somewhere around 19 to 25 people today from at least 18 neighborhoods and cities they were present in, including San Bernardino, Riverside, Highland, Palm Springs, Rialto, Thousand Oaks, Simi Valley, San Diego, Anaheim, Santa Ana, Lancaster, Palmdale, Antelope Valley, and Victor Ville which was all ICE today. While Border Patrol raided through Arcadia, El Monte, Temple City, and Rosemead. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 17, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: Federal Agents Ram Truck Into Fleeing Man Before Abducting Him Border Patrol is back after a week break. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 16, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: CBP MIA In Recent ICE Raids; LA County Approves Mask Ban A breakdown of California and Los Angeles County's new laws banning ICE and local law enforcement from wearing masks or concealing their identity and agencies. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 10, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: ICE Continues Targeting Courthouses and Detains Another U.S. Citizen Border Patrol was seemingly absent today, except for a raid at the Lemon Grove Home Depot. Meanwhile, ICE and HSI targeted courthouses and Santa Barbara neighborhoods, taking another U.S. citizen today. Izzy Ramirez December 9, 2025 OLDER
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"page_name": "'Have You Ever Been Frightened by a Dumpling?' ~ J. Gold on the San Gabriel Valley ~ L.A. TACO",
"title": "'Have You Ever Been Frightened by a Dumpling?' ~ J. Gold on the San Gabriel Valley ~ L.A. TACO",
"content": "TACOS ‘Have You Ever Been Frightened by a Dumpling?’ ~ J. Gold on the San Gabriel Valley By Tien Nguyen 3:14 PM PDT on July 26, 2018 Share on Email Share on Facebook Share on X (formerly Twitter) Share on Reddit Via City of Gold [dropcap size=big]I[/dropcap]s heaven a San Gabriel Valley strip mall? Jonathan Gold might’ve volunteered that it is. Jonathan logged a significant percentage of his annual mileage exploring the boulevards and avenues of the San Gabriel Valley, and some of his most wonderful writing came about as he championed the area’s enormously diverse restaurants. It was apparent in his reviews how much respect he had for these places, a respect rare in mainstream media back when he first started writing about food and not quite as common as we’d like to see in today’s major publications. He obsessed over soup dumplings; he admired a proper pho broth. The skill required to shave a bowlful of noodles from a clump of raw dough, or to roll a proper beef roll, did not escape his attention. And maybe most importantly, Jonathan was pretty damn funny, so if there was a restaurant with a dumpling the size of softball, you could count on him to have a field day with it. Kindly, of course: Jonathan was the sort of critic aware enough of his privilege to know that whether a joke uplifts or cuts often depends on who’s delivering the punch-line. The number of reviews Jonathan filed restaurants over his career is staggering; if you organized them all into an anthology, you’d well have a recent history of the region. Here are a few choice quotes — or excerpts, rather, because it’s near impossible to pull a Jonathan quote without pulling in everything else around it — from a few of his jaunts to the SGV. Golden Deli Banh Mi. About the mini-malls of Las Tunas Drive, in a piece co-written with Laurie Ochoa The heart of the Las Tunas eating district is made up of essentially two mini-malls, cater-corner from each other on each side of Las Tunas at Mission Drive. Mini-malls may be ugly and undistinguished, strings of small business that have little in common with each other, but they are attractive compared to the alternative--a city becoming a \"revitalized\" theme-park version of itself, stuffed with chain stores. At their best, mini-malls can make dreams come true: an opportunity for the undercapitalized businessman with a knack for shish kebab or Hainanese chicken rice, an opportunity for neighborhood residents to explore a world of cuisines. Inside the self-contained world of the Las Tunas Plaza, for instance, its parking lot almost always filled to capacity, three excellent restaurants, one right after the other, serve the food of Indonesia, Taiwan and Vietnam. About drawing inspiration from the SGV When the big Chinese food mall San Gabriel Square was young, the most popular restaurant was probably Tung Lai Shun, inspired by a famous Islamic restaurant in Beijing and serving a style of food we had never seen here before. I used to take visiting cookbook writers to Tung Lai Shun — I was convinced that Richard Olney would find hints of Provence in the plush braised lamb and that Fannie Farmer auteur Marion Cunningham might find inspiration in the flatbreads. (They didn't, but it in no way diminished my admiration.) About Omar’s, or: the world There has never been a local restaurant quite like Omar's, a few tables squeezed into what used to be the Taiwanese noodle joint MaMa's. It specializes in Islamic Uyghur cooking, a cuisine that more closely resembles the cooking of Uzbekistan and Afghanistan than it does anything you might think of as Chinese — Central Asian cooking approached from the East rather than the West. When you eat Mrs. Omar's Uyghur cooking, you begin to understand the interconnected nature of the world. Tan Cang Newport Seafood via Yelp. About the single-dish restaurant My first restaurant column for The Times, written when I was still a music writer who answered his phone \"Guns N' Rosesdesk,\" was about the concept of single-dish restaurants, places like Lawry's, Shiro and Philippe, whose menus may be as long as a remix of \"November Rain\" but which might as well serve just the one thing they are famous for. I was writing then about El Parian in the Pico-Union district, still the best place to go in Los Angeles for a bowl of Jalisco-style birria, but the single-dish principle is universal. As a waiter at the original Palm was once reported to have said, \"Sure, I'll bring you a menu. But first, tell me how you'd like us to cook your steak.\" The Asian swath of the San Gabriel Valley is, of course, a hotbed of single-dish restaurants, from the spicy fried lobster at Tan Cang Newport Seafood to the Beijing duck at Beijing Duck House, the spring rolls at Golden Deli and the roast catfish at Phong Dinh. Din Tai Fung in Arcadia is where you go for xiao long bao, soup dumplings, although the menu lists dozens of other things; 101 Noodle Express in Alhambra is where you go for flaky, crunchy beef rolls, although it opened as a restaurant dedicated to the cult of De Zhou chicken, a famous dish from Shandong. Hui Tou Xiang Noodles House is a tiny new restaurant in a San Gabriel mini-mall, a few steps from the only restaurant in town serving a proper version of Nanking duck, and right next to Luscious Dumplings, an insanely popular noodle shop beloved for its crusty pan-fried dumplings. [...] But what you are here for are the titular hui tou, an invented name for … Chinese blintzes, more or less: dumpling skins burrito-wrapped around thumb-sized lozenges of pork minced with onions, flattened into oblongs, and pan-fried tawny brown. The pork juices become pressurized, and when you breach the crisp skin with your teeth, they jet across the table or right down at your lap. https://www.instagram.com/p/55cK8Sm7dL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link About preternaturally large soup dumplings SUBSCRIBE TO SKIP ADS ADVERTISEMENT Have you ever been frightened by a dumpling? Truly, genuinely scared? Because the juicy crab and pork buns at Wang Xing Ji — smoking-hot dumplings the size of water balloons, sneakily full of boiling juice — could probably be weaponized. You could deploy them as grenades, I'm pretty sure, lobbing the heavy spheroids over battlements. Or you could employ them as sub-lethal projectiles, splatting them into the enemy at will, although the sticky broth is undoubtedly prohibited in an obscure codicil of the Geneva Conventions. If you were on the other end of such an attack you would die happy, with sweet crab and pork juices trickling down your cheek — but you would still die. Does battlefield protocol in such cases include the administering of vinegar and fresh ginger to the fallen along with last rites? I would hope so. About dim sum weather It’s 107 degrees in the San Gabriel Valley sun, a blasting heat with a sulfurous, hydrocarbon edge, and the sweating hordes packed inside the lobby of the new King Hua huddle under the one vent in the room that even promises a bit of cool, jostling one another for the chance to have their cheeks licked by the hint of a breeze, and muttering threats toward the newcomers, whose entrance is accompanied by 100 cubic feet of stinking, superheated air. You stumble outside to the patio waiting area, and just as quickly, the heat forces you back in. After 45 minutes or so, you start to wonder whether any dim sum breakfast could be worth this. The woman at the podium barks out Cantonese numbers with a sneer you imagine more appropriate to a prison guard assigning new inmates their cells. And then your number is called, the crowd parts and you are in an air-conditioned heaven with a dripping glass of ice water in your fist, a pile of fried smelts at your elbow and a tableful of dumplings on the way. Special Lamb with Soup Pot at Nothingness. Photo by Jing S. Via Yelp. About nothing \"If you gaze long into an abyss,\" Nietzsche wrote, \"the abyss also gazes into you.\" If you gaze long into Nothingness, or at least into the San Gabriel Sichuan restaurant of that name, the Nothingness that stares back at you is likely to include steamed whole fish, braised lamb with jelly noodle, and pig feet with hot pepper. The steam rising from hot pots may suggest an infinite void, but only for that moment before the vivid red of the roiling broth becomes visible through the mist. Also, I imagine the empty world does not smell quite so strongly of garlic and toasted chiles. Why is there something rather than nothingness? Because the presumption of nonexistence does not allow for the possibility of live crawfish steamed in chile sauce, while Nothingness the restaurant does. Does existence precede essence? I haven't read a lot of philosophy since college, but I maintain that the snap of the shell, the softness of the flesh, indicate that it probably does. I had assumed that \"Nothingness\" was a mistranslation of the Chinese characters — it's not — or else a statement of rebellion, a way of identifying itself as The Artist Formerly Known as Huo La La. The people at the restaurant suggest that the name refers to a positive Chongqing attitude toward life. A friend thinks that it may be something like the \"no worries\" you hear from Australians. I'm still going with Sartre. About you on the Westside It has come to my attention that some of you think I have been paying too much attention to noodle shops in San Gabriel. And I realize, yes, I have been writing quite a bit about San Gabriel noodle shops lately, although in my defense I would point out that some of them are technically in Alhambra or Rosemead. San Gabriel noodle shops are a particular interest of mine, as you have probably determined — a subject I deem to be worth a lifetime of study. You may be wishing that I had spent more time exploring the San Jose–based chain restaurants that populate the new Santa Monica Place, or the murderers' row of bad Italian restaurants in Brentwood, but we all have our weaknesses: This is mine. When I see all the new Dongbei dives that I'll never get to, when I work through all the new dumpling places up on Las Tunas Avenue, I sometimes regret that I can't devote my entire life to the medium of wet, geographically inconvenient dough. I could probably point you to 20 or 30 San Gabriel noodle shops that I haven't had time to write about so far, pho counters and mee slingers and mian merchants, and I suspect each of them is more interesting than the latest bistro to open in Van Nuys. Which is to say, here we are again on Valley Boulevard, in another well-worn mini-mall, which seems mostly deserted yet is full of cars. We are outside Nha Trang, a cramped shop specializing in the noodles of Central Vietnam, and the reason we are outside is because the restaurant itself is slightly smaller than the backseat of a Hyundai — 15, 16 seats tops. RELATED: 'I Am My Truck. My Truck Is Me': Seven Classic Jonathan Gold Quotes About Los Angeles A Cold Email From a Food-Obsessed Teen: Why I Owe Everything to Jonathan Gold ‘Taco Should Be A Verb’ ~ Five Essential Jonathan Gold Quotes About Tacos Jonathan Gold, Ambassador of L.A. Cuisines, Has Died SUBSCRIBE TO SKIP ADS ADVERTISEMENT Share the taco: Share on Email Share on Facebook Share on X (formerly Twitter) Share on Reddit Tien Nguyen @_tiennguyen Tien Nguyen writes about food and culture. She co-authored the New York Times bestseller \"L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food\" with Roy Choi and Natasha Phan, and her work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times and Lucky Peach. Read More:BEIJING DUCK HOUSE,DIN TAI FUNG,DONGBEI,GOLDEN DELI,HUI TOU XIANG,HUI TOU XIANG NOODLES HOUSE,JONATHAN GOLD,KING HUA,LAS TUNAS PLAZA,LUSCIOUS DUMPLINGS,NHA TRANG,NOTHINGNESS,OMAR'S,PHONG DINH,RICHARD OLNEY,SAN GABRIEL VALLEY,SGV,SHANDONG,TAN CANG NEWPORT SEAFOOD,TIEN NGUYEN,TUNG LAI SHUN,WANG XING JI Stay in touch Sign up for our free newsletter Email SIGN UP More from L.A. TACO FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours There were 10 confirmed sightings of federal agents in Pomona on Thursday. Agents also snatched someone near Hollywood High School on Wednesday. Izzy Ramirez January 8, 2026 Support L.A. TACO Advertisement opens in a new tab. FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity “They didn’t stop the ICE agent, but they stopped me,” said Jose Madera, who followed a vehicle driven wrecklessly by ICE agents, who continue to roam freely nationwide, even after killing 37-year-old Renee Nicole Good in Minneapolis earlier today. Aisha Wallace-Palomares January 7, 2026 CULTURE L.A.’s Young Magicians Are Blowing Minds at Clubs, Pop Video Sets, and Taco Stands Today's budding magicians are trading college and 9 to 5s to work with Chappell Roan, raise money for cancer patients, and perform at Magic Castle, marking a comeback for magic tricks in 2026. 1 Comments Julianne Le January 7, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 See all posts",
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"url": "https://lataco.com/",
"page_name": "L.A. TACO - Celebrating The Taco Lifestyle in Los Angeles",
"title": "L.A. TACO - Celebrating The Taco Lifestyle in Los Angeles",
"content": "Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours Izzy Ramirez FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate Javier Cabral ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity Aisha Wallace-Palomares CULTURE L.A.’s Young Magicians Are Blowing Minds at Clubs, Pop Video Sets, and Taco Stands 1 Comments Julianne Le Stay in touch Sign up for our free newsletter Email SIGN UP ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez ICE DAILY MEMO: Masked and Unmasked Agents Kidnap at Least Eight Around Southern California In First Weekend of 2026 During the first weekend of the year, agents targeted areas nearby a Dollar Tree, PetCo, and more common errand hotspots—even a Wienerschnitzel. Izzy Ramirez Support L.A. TACO Advertisement opens in a new tab. L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF FOOD Goodbye, Horses: Notorious Sunset Strip Restaurant Closes More Than Two Years Since Animal Abuse Controversy At its peak, Horses was doing more than 375 covers a night. Reservations were nearly impossible to snag. 3 Comments Lauren Bethke COMIX Sunday Taquitos #9: There Will Be Blood Stop us if you’ve heard this one before. Sunday Taquitos! Art by Ivan Ehlers. Ivan Ehlers FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Returns to Santa Maria for Fourth Day in a Row; At Least 40 Taken ICE agents were active in Santa Maria in the early morning, plus multiple sightings in Hemet, Thermal and Mecca. Izzy Ramirez See all posts News L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? Julianne Le Daily Memo: The Escalation Continues Before Christmas as ICE, HSI, and Border Patrol Set Record Raids Again Memo Torres, Izzy Ramirez, and Aisha Wallace-Palomares Tear Gas, Censorship, and Medical Neglect At The GEO Owned Adelanto ICE Processing Center Memo Torres Guides L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Lists and Guides of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Julianne Le L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Culture Stories of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF The 25 Best L.A.-Centric Books Of 2025 Mike Sonksen Neighborhoods L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Lexis-Olivier Ray ‘Lead Contamination: An Old Foe Rises from the Ashes of the Eaton Fire,’ Live With Francois Tissot At Caltech’s Earnest C. Watson Lecture Series L.A. TACO STAFF",
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"url": "https://lataco.com/tag/guides",
"page_name": "Guides to Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO",
"title": "Guides to Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO",
"content": "Guides L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki January 6, 2026 FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF January 6, 2026 L.A. TACO GUIDES L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Lists and Guides of 2025 This year, L.A. TACO compiled unique lists and guides for our readers to deepen their appreciation for L.A. and the people in it. We shared our top picks for local independent businesses, ways to get involved within your community, and strategies for resisting ICE in Los Angeles. L.A. TACO STAFF December 30, 2025 FEATURED L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Most federal agents and officials would prefer for their actions to go unnoticed, but Memo Torres has dedicated nearly every single day of the past six months to documenting and exposing the often heinous and violent abductions taking place across Southern California. Julianne Le December 30, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Culture Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read culture stories of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 30, 2025 BOOKS The 25 Best L.A.-Centric Books Of 2025 While a book cannot stop evil forces, it can educate us, warn us, and prepare us for what’s coming. The books listed here not only meditate on current events like the Los Angeles wildfires, late stage capitalism, and rising xenophobia, they also reflect our vibrant local literary culture. Mike Sonksen December 30, 2025 NEWS L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 Our reporters were on the ground this past year conducting that street-level reporting necessary for showing what's really happening in our city. L.A. TACO STAFF December 29, 2025 FOOD L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Food Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read food features of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 23, 2025 SPONSORED The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World Metro's 57.6 mile-long A Line offers riders the chance to access foods from so many countries, regions, and cultures. We picked one favorite restaurant from every stop to guide you on an epic eating tour of Los Angeles. 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF December 19, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES The 24 Best Tamales In Los Angeles Banana leaf tamales, tamales filled with savory corn pudding, sweet tamales, and those that can only be described as \"unique.\" Los Angeles really is the best U.S. city for tamal season. L.A. TACO STAFF December 11, 2025 OLDER",
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"url": "https://lataco.com/category/food/tacos",
"page_name": "Taco Reviews, News, and Stories ~ L.A. TACO",
"title": "Taco Reviews, News, and Stories ~ L.A. TACO",
"content": "Tacos FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 TACOS L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . The Oscars of the taco world is going to a taquero who stood up for first responders and inspired us with words of compassion, all while serving a mean surf-and-turf taco in a masa wasteland. 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 22, 2025 TACO MEMBERS ONLY The 69 Best Tacos in Los Angeles, Ranked To live and eat tacos in Los Angeles. As the L.A.'s first and only publication dedicated to finding the best tacos, we are excited to present you all with this year's list. It's the guide to end all other taco guides and it is dedicated to our members who support us and to the best damn city in the world—complete with a map. Happy 69ing. TACOS FOREVER. 4 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 9, 2025 TACOS ICE Raids Delayed L.A.’s Best New Taquería From Opening In Silver Lake. Now It’s Finally Open. “How could I celebrate when people who feed our city couldn’t even work?” the owner of Taquería Frontera said amidst ICE's siege on L.A. Erick Galindo November 18, 2025 STREET VENDING I’m the Daughter of Taqueros—These Are the Lessons They Taught Me I’ll always jump at the opportunity to share that my parents are taqueros. It contextualizes so many crazy anecdotes and justifies my high standards for tacos. Some stories just need to be preceded with “Ok, so my parents sell tacos and … \" Alejandra Cid October 29, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES A Guide to The Best Bite at Every Spot in Mercado La Paloma Including one insider's tips for skipping the line at Holbox. Erick Galindo October 28, 2025 MEXICO Mexican Farmers Shut Down Highways In National Strike, Demanding Better Prices For Their Produce The dramatic actions—showing farmers at times dumping their limes and avocados—are a direct challenge to president Claudia Sheinbaum's administration, demanding an end to NAFTA flexibilities and other policies that farmers say are destroying their livelihoods. Javier Cabral October 17, 2025 TACOS Five Killer Tacos To Eat In L.A. On National Taco Day From puffy San Antonio-style tacos from a fine-dining chef to a a blue tortilla from freshly nixtamlized corn that just so happens to be topped in French fries, these are the L.A. tacos to celebrate with. L.A. TACO STAFF October 7, 2025 TACOS Tostadas Over Tasting Menus: Holbox Is North America’s Only 50 Best List Spot Found In a Food Court Amid ICE's terrorizing abductions in L.A.'s Brown-skinned communities, Holbox's #42 spot on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants is a monumental win for its formerly undocumented owner, chef Gilberto Cetina. His celebrated mariscos bar's affordable heirloom-corn tostadas under $20 now rival $100+ tasting menus, spotlighting immigrant grit and cultural resilience against erasure. Javier Cabral October 2, 2025 TACOS How Did Texas Get a Taco-Dispensing ATM Before L.A.? We're just mad we didn't think of it first. Hadley Tomicki September 18, 2025 OLDER",
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"page_name": "ICE Archives ~ L.A. TACO",
"title": "ICE Archives ~ L.A. TACO",
"content": "ICE ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours There were 10 confirmed sightings of federal agents in Pomona on Thursday. Agents also snatched someone near Hollywood High School on Wednesday. Izzy Ramirez January 8, 2026 ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity “They didn’t stop the ICE agent, but they stopped me,” said Jose Madera, who followed a vehicle driven wrecklessly by ICE agents, who continue to roam freely nationwide, even after killing 37-year-old Renee Nicole Good in Minneapolis earlier today. Aisha Wallace-Palomares January 7, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Masked and Unmasked Agents Kidnap at Least Eight Around Southern California In First Weekend of 2026 During the first weekend of the year, agents targeted areas nearby a Dollar Tree, PetCo, and more common errand hotspots—even a Wienerschnitzel. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Returns to Santa Maria for Fourth Day in a Row; At Least 40 Taken ICE agents were active in Santa Maria in the early morning, plus multiple sightings in Hemet, Thermal and Mecca. Izzy Ramirez December 30, 2025 FEATURED L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Most federal agents and officials would prefer for their actions to go unnoticed, but Memo Torres has dedicated nearly every single day of the past six months to documenting and exposing the often heinous and violent abductions taking place across Southern California. Julianne Le December 30, 2025 FEATURED At Least 140 People Kidnapped in the 10 Days Leading up to Christmas Eve The data comes from community watch teams and rapid responders. This is the minimum number we’re able to confirm and doesn’t include all arrests and kidnappings, such as at ICE-Check In appointments, etc. Izzy Ramirez December 24, 2025 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Kidnaps Parents From San Bernardino, Riverside and Orange County the day before Christmas Eve Agents in Mecca detained a man inside a grocery store while agents in Fontana kidnapped two people from an apartment complex, among many others. Izzy Ramirez December 23, 2025 ICE The First National Website Dedicated To Documenting ICE License Plates Is Here “Something like the plate tracker helps to encourage and promote legal transparency and legal accountability, especially when they're going around, switching plates, trying to hide, trying to be undetectable,” said Sherman Austin. Aisha Wallace-Palomares December 23, 2025 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: San Bernardino ICE Raid Ends in Another Car Crash ICE once again focused its operations in the Inland Empire with a particular focus on San Bernardino. Other communities outside Los Angeles were also targeted. Izzy Ramirez December 22, 2025 OLDER",
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"url": "https://lataco.com/category/food",
"page_name": "Food Archives ~ L.A. TACO",
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"content": "Food FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki January 6, 2026 FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF January 6, 2026 FOOD Goodbye, Horses: Notorious Sunset Strip Restaurant Closes More Than Two Years Since Animal Abuse Controversy At its peak, Horses was doing more than 375 covers a night. Reservations were nearly impossible to snag. 3 Comments Lauren Bethke January 5, 2026 FOOD Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? L.A.'s tamaleros say this holiday season Is pricier than ever. ICE raids, inflation, and tariffs are also cutting demand. Julianne Le December 23, 2025 FOOD L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Food Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read food features of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 23, 2025 TACOS L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . The Oscars of the taco world is going to a taquero who stood up for first responders and inspired us with words of compassion, all while serving a mean surf-and-turf taco in a masa wasteland. 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 22, 2025 SPONSORED The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World Metro's 57.6 mile-long A Line offers riders the chance to access foods from so many countries, regions, and cultures. We picked one favorite restaurant from every stop to guide you on an epic eating tour of Los Angeles. 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF December 19, 2025 NEWS Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Skaf's general manager denied that they cut down the tree to make their restaurant's sign more visible from the street. Lexis-Olivier Ray December 19, 2025 OLDER",
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"url": "https://lataco.com/about",
"page_name": "What Is L.A. TACO? ~ L.A. TACO",
"title": "What Is L.A. TACO? ~ L.A. TACO",
"content": "What Is L.A. TACO? Glad you asked! L.A. TACO celebrates our Los Angeles. This is not the L.A. you see in the movies or on TV. L.A. TACO is an independently owned and operated media platform. We bring our loyal readers and paying members street-level news stories that often cover L.A.'s most marginalized communities, stories that other publications wouldn't dare cover or don't have the credibility to report on. We also feature profiles on L.A.'s underground culture and the everyday heroes who propel our fine city. All of this is anchored by our constantly updated database of the best taquerías and affordable places to eat in this vital, continually evolving metropolis. Our reporting serves L.A.'s working communities outside the confines of L.A.'s trendy neighborhoods, in neighborhoods far south of 10, east of the 710, and north of the 101. For 20 years, we have delivered raw, street-level journalism from all corners of L.A. County to our loyal readers, supporters, members, and advertising partners who share our passion for Los Angeles. L.A. TACO was founded in 2006, stemming from a simple desire to document the things we love about the city (mostly tacos, weed, and graffiti at the time). We coined the term 'Taco Lifestyle' to summarize our philosophy towards experiencing Los Angeles and its vast communities, inspired by the street food that unifies everybody in this city. No matter where you are from and how much this city changes, the one constant will always be tacos and the desire to know where to find the best ones, whether you're a resident or a visitor. Over the years, the site has built a passionate community of readers, members, and contributors who keep the site and its spirit alive. We also organize events for the community, like our annual TACO MADNESS and Birriamania food festivals. We also have our own app to help you find the best tacos vetted by us and closest to you in real time! In 2018, L.A. TACO relaunched as a news-centric platform, bringing our readers an alternative style of hyper-local city coverage. In 2020, L.A. TACO received the first-ever Emerging Voice Award from the James Beard Foundation for our food coverage, which touches on deeper elements around food such as social justice, representation, and immigration. If you love our stuff and are down for our vision of Los Angeles, we invite you to join us and become a paying member to help keep the L.A. TACO dream alive. Our members are the reason we have been able to continue redefining local journalism. Where else will you get free tacos and drinks while helping keep this city's most powerful people accountable? Invest or partner with us, pitch us a story, like us on your socials, and keep checking back for more. Meet Our Team | Contact Us",
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"page_name": "Local News for Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO",
"title": "Local News for Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO",
"content": "News FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 NEWS L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 Our reporters were on the ground this past year conducting that street-level reporting necessary for showing what's really happening in our city. L.A. TACO STAFF December 29, 2025 FOOD Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? L.A.'s tamaleros say this holiday season Is pricier than ever. ICE raids, inflation, and tariffs are also cutting demand. Julianne Le December 23, 2025 NEWS Daily Memo: The Escalation Continues Before Christmas as ICE, HSI, and Border Patrol Set Record Raids Again In another record setting week, not only have the raids and kidnappings escalated, but so has the recklessness. The week saw more car chases, accidents, children placed in danger and separated from parents, more people detained and released, and new areas of Southern California targeted heavier than before like Antelope and Coachella Valleys. Memo Torres, Izzy Ramirez, and Aisha Wallace-Palomares December 19, 2025 NEWS Tear Gas, Censorship, and Medical Neglect At The GEO Owned Adelanto ICE Processing Center These are some of the horror stories detainees risk telling visitors in fear of guard retaliation. Memo Torres December 19, 2025 NEWS Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Skaf's general manager denied that they cut down the tree to make their restaurant's sign more visible from the street. Lexis-Olivier Ray December 19, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: ICE And Border Patrol Spotted In 18 Cities Taking Street Vendors, Construction Workers, and Crashing Into Vehicles While Chasing People ICE and Border Patrol took, that we know of, somewhere around 19 to 25 people today from at least 18 neighborhoods and cities they were present in, including San Bernardino, Riverside, Highland, Palm Springs, Rialto, Thousand Oaks, Simi Valley, San Diego, Anaheim, Santa Ana, Lancaster, Palmdale, Antelope Valley, and Victor Ville which was all ICE today. While Border Patrol raided through Arcadia, El Monte, Temple City, and Rosemead. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 17, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: Federal Agents Ram Truck Into Fleeing Man Before Abducting Him Border Patrol is back after a week break. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 16, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: CBP MIA In Recent ICE Raids; LA County Approves Mask Ban A breakdown of California and Los Angeles County's new laws banning ICE and local law enforcement from wearing masks or concealing their identity and agencies. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 10, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: ICE Continues Targeting Courthouses and Detains Another U.S. Citizen Border Patrol was seemingly absent today, except for a raid at the Lemon Grove Home Depot. Meanwhile, ICE and HSI targeted courthouses and Santa Barbara neighborhoods, taking another U.S. citizen today. Izzy Ramirez December 9, 2025 OLDER",
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"full_text": "================================================================================\nFULL TEXT EXTRACTION: LA Taco – SGV Dumplings\nURL: https://lataco.com/have-you-ever-been-frightened-by-a-dumpling-j-gold-on-the-san-gabriel-valley\nExtracted: 2026-01-10T19:55:36.206482Z\n================================================================================\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 1: 'Have You Ever Been Frightened by a Dumpling?' ~ J. Gold on the San Gabriel Valley ~ L.A. TACO\nURL: https://lataco.com/have-you-ever-been-frightened-by-a-dumpling-j-gold-on-the-san-gabriel-valley\nWords: 2,392\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nTACOS ‘Have You Ever Been Frightened by a Dumpling?’ ~ J. Gold on the San Gabriel Valley By Tien Nguyen 3:14 PM PDT on July 26, 2018 Share on Email Share on Facebook Share on X (formerly Twitter) Share on Reddit Via City of Gold [dropcap size=big]I[/dropcap]s heaven a San Gabriel Valley strip mall? Jonathan Gold might’ve volunteered that it is. Jonathan logged a significant percentage of his annual mileage exploring the boulevards and avenues of the San Gabriel Valley, and some of his most wonderful writing came about as he championed the area’s enormously diverse restaurants. It was apparent in his reviews how much respect he had for these places, a respect rare in mainstream media back when he first started writing about food and not quite as common as we’d like to see in today’s major publications. He obsessed over soup dumplings; he admired a proper pho broth. The skill required to shave a bowlful of noodles from a clump of raw dough, or to roll a proper beef roll, did not escape his attention. And maybe most importantly, Jonathan was pretty damn funny, so if there was a restaurant with a dumpling the size of softball, you could count on him to have a field day with it. Kindly, of course: Jonathan was the sort of critic aware enough of his privilege to know that whether a joke uplifts or cuts often depends on who’s delivering the punch-line. The number of reviews Jonathan filed restaurants over his career is staggering; if you organized them all into an anthology, you’d well have a recent history of the region. Here are a few choice quotes — or excerpts, rather, because it’s near impossible to pull a Jonathan quote without pulling in everything else around it — from a few of his jaunts to the SGV. Golden Deli Banh Mi. About the mini-malls of Las Tunas Drive, in a piece co-written with Laurie Ochoa The heart of the Las Tunas eating district is made up of essentially two mini-malls, cater-corner from each other on each side of Las Tunas at Mission Drive. Mini-malls may be ugly and undistinguished, strings of small business that have little in common with each other, but they are attractive compared to the alternative--a city becoming a \"revitalized\" theme-park version of itself, stuffed with chain stores. At their best, mini-malls can make dreams come true: an opportunity for the undercapitalized businessman with a knack for shish kebab or Hainanese chicken rice, an opportunity for neighborhood residents to explore a world of cuisines. Inside the self-contained world of the Las Tunas Plaza, for instance, its parking lot almost always filled to capacity, three excellent restaurants, one right after the other, serve the food of Indonesia, Taiwan and Vietnam. About drawing inspiration from the SGV When the big Chinese food mall San Gabriel Square was young, the most popular restaurant was probably Tung Lai Shun, inspired by a famous Islamic restaurant in Beijing and serving a style of food we had never seen here before. I used to take visiting cookbook writers to Tung Lai Shun — I was convinced that Richard Olney would find hints of Provence in the plush braised lamb and that Fannie Farmer auteur Marion Cunningham might find inspiration in the flatbreads. (They didn't, but it in no way diminished my admiration.) About Omar’s, or: the world There has never been a local restaurant quite like Omar's, a few tables squeezed into what used to be the Taiwanese noodle joint MaMa's. It specializes in Islamic Uyghur cooking, a cuisine that more closely resembles the cooking of Uzbekistan and Afghanistan than it does anything you might think of as Chinese — Central Asian cooking approached from the East rather than the West. When you eat Mrs. Omar's Uyghur cooking, you begin to understand the interconnected nature of the world. Tan Cang Newport Seafood via Yelp. About the single-dish restaurant My first restaurant column for The Times, written when I was still a music writer who answered his phone \"Guns N' Rosesdesk,\" was about the concept of single-dish restaurants, places like Lawry's, Shiro and Philippe, whose menus may be as long as a remix of \"November Rain\" but which might as well serve just the one thing they are famous for. I was writing then about El Parian in the Pico-Union district, still the best place to go in Los Angeles for a bowl of Jalisco-style birria, but the single-dish principle is universal. As a waiter at the original Palm was once reported to have said, \"Sure, I'll bring you a menu. But first, tell me how you'd like us to cook your steak.\" The Asian swath of the San Gabriel Valley is, of course, a hotbed of single-dish restaurants, from the spicy fried lobster at Tan Cang Newport Seafood to the Beijing duck at Beijing Duck House, the spring rolls at Golden Deli and the roast catfish at Phong Dinh. Din Tai Fung in Arcadia is where you go for xiao long bao, soup dumplings, although the menu lists dozens of other things; 101 Noodle Express in Alhambra is where you go for flaky, crunchy beef rolls, although it opened as a restaurant dedicated to the cult of De Zhou chicken, a famous dish from Shandong. Hui Tou Xiang Noodles House is a tiny new restaurant in a San Gabriel mini-mall, a few steps from the only restaurant in town serving a proper version of Nanking duck, and right next to Luscious Dumplings, an insanely popular noodle shop beloved for its crusty pan-fried dumplings. [...] But what you are here for are the titular hui tou, an invented name for … Chinese blintzes, more or less: dumpling skins burrito-wrapped around thumb-sized lozenges of pork minced with onions, flattened into oblongs, and pan-fried tawny brown. The pork juices become pressurized, and when you breach the crisp skin with your teeth, they jet across the table or right down at your lap. https://www.instagram.com/p/55cK8Sm7dL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link About preternaturally large soup dumplings SUBSCRIBE TO SKIP ADS ADVERTISEMENT Have you ever been frightened by a dumpling? Truly, genuinely scared? Because the juicy crab and pork buns at Wang Xing Ji — smoking-hot dumplings the size of water balloons, sneakily full of boiling juice — could probably be weaponized. You could deploy them as grenades, I'm pretty sure, lobbing the heavy spheroids over battlements. Or you could employ them as sub-lethal projectiles, splatting them into the enemy at will, although the sticky broth is undoubtedly prohibited in an obscure codicil of the Geneva Conventions. If you were on the other end of such an attack you would die happy, with sweet crab and pork juices trickling down your cheek — but you would still die. Does battlefield protocol in such cases include the administering of vinegar and fresh ginger to the fallen along with last rites? I would hope so. About dim sum weather It’s 107 degrees in the San Gabriel Valley sun, a blasting heat with a sulfurous, hydrocarbon edge, and the sweating hordes packed inside the lobby of the new King Hua huddle under the one vent in the room that even promises a bit of cool, jostling one another for the chance to have their cheeks licked by the hint of a breeze, and muttering threats toward the newcomers, whose entrance is accompanied by 100 cubic feet of stinking, superheated air. You stumble outside to the patio waiting area, and just as quickly, the heat forces you back in. After 45 minutes or so, you start to wonder whether any dim sum breakfast could be worth this. The woman at the podium barks out Cantonese numbers with a sneer you imagine more appropriate to a prison guard assigning new inmates their cells. And then your number is called, the crowd parts and you are in an air-conditioned heaven with a dripping glass of ice water in your fist, a pile of fried smelts at your elbow and a tableful of dumplings on the way. Special Lamb with Soup Pot at Nothingness. Photo by Jing S. Via Yelp. About nothing \"If you gaze long into an abyss,\" Nietzsche wrote, \"the abyss also gazes into you.\" If you gaze long into Nothingness, or at least into the San Gabriel Sichuan restaurant of that name, the Nothingness that stares back at you is likely to include steamed whole fish, braised lamb with jelly noodle, and pig feet with hot pepper. The steam rising from hot pots may suggest an infinite void, but only for that moment before the vivid red of the roiling broth becomes visible through the mist. Also, I imagine the empty world does not smell quite so strongly of garlic and toasted chiles. Why is there something rather than nothingness? Because the presumption of nonexistence does not allow for the possibility of live crawfish steamed in chile sauce, while Nothingness the restaurant does. Does existence precede essence? I haven't read a lot of philosophy since college, but I maintain that the snap of the shell, the softness of the flesh, indicate that it probably does. I had assumed that \"Nothingness\" was a mistranslation of the Chinese characters — it's not — or else a statement of rebellion, a way of identifying itself as The Artist Formerly Known as Huo La La. The people at the restaurant suggest that the name refers to a positive Chongqing attitude toward life. A friend thinks that it may be something like the \"no worries\" you hear from Australians. I'm still going with Sartre. About you on the Westside It has come to my attention that some of you think I have been paying too much attention to noodle shops in San Gabriel. And I realize, yes, I have been writing quite a bit about San Gabriel noodle shops lately, although in my defense I would point out that some of them are technically in Alhambra or Rosemead. San Gabriel noodle shops are a particular interest of mine, as you have probably determined — a subject I deem to be worth a lifetime of study. You may be wishing that I had spent more time exploring the San Jose–based chain restaurants that populate the new Santa Monica Place, or the murderers' row of bad Italian restaurants in Brentwood, but we all have our weaknesses: This is mine. When I see all the new Dongbei dives that I'll never get to, when I work through all the new dumpling places up on Las Tunas Avenue, I sometimes regret that I can't devote my entire life to the medium of wet, geographically inconvenient dough. I could probably point you to 20 or 30 San Gabriel noodle shops that I haven't had time to write about so far, pho counters and mee slingers and mian merchants, and I suspect each of them is more interesting than the latest bistro to open in Van Nuys. Which is to say, here we are again on Valley Boulevard, in another well-worn mini-mall, which seems mostly deserted yet is full of cars. We are outside Nha Trang, a cramped shop specializing in the noodles of Central Vietnam, and the reason we are outside is because the restaurant itself is slightly smaller than the backseat of a Hyundai — 15, 16 seats tops. RELATED: 'I Am My Truck. My Truck Is Me': Seven Classic Jonathan Gold Quotes About Los Angeles A Cold Email From a Food-Obsessed Teen: Why I Owe Everything to Jonathan Gold ‘Taco Should Be A Verb’ ~ Five Essential Jonathan Gold Quotes About Tacos Jonathan Gold, Ambassador of L.A. Cuisines, Has Died SUBSCRIBE TO SKIP ADS ADVERTISEMENT Share the taco: Share on Email Share on Facebook Share on X (formerly Twitter) Share on Reddit Tien Nguyen @_tiennguyen Tien Nguyen writes about food and culture. She co-authored the New York Times bestseller \"L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food\" with Roy Choi and Natasha Phan, and her work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times and Lucky Peach. Read More:BEIJING DUCK HOUSE,DIN TAI FUNG,DONGBEI,GOLDEN DELI,HUI TOU XIANG,HUI TOU XIANG NOODLES HOUSE,JONATHAN GOLD,KING HUA,LAS TUNAS PLAZA,LUSCIOUS DUMPLINGS,NHA TRANG,NOTHINGNESS,OMAR'S,PHONG DINH,RICHARD OLNEY,SAN GABRIEL VALLEY,SGV,SHANDONG,TAN CANG NEWPORT SEAFOOD,TIEN NGUYEN,TUNG LAI SHUN,WANG XING JI Stay in touch Sign up for our free newsletter Email SIGN UP More from L.A. TACO FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours There were 10 confirmed sightings of federal agents in Pomona on Thursday. Agents also snatched someone near Hollywood High School on Wednesday. Izzy Ramirez January 8, 2026 Support L.A. TACO Advertisement opens in a new tab. FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity “They didn’t stop the ICE agent, but they stopped me,” said Jose Madera, who followed a vehicle driven wrecklessly by ICE agents, who continue to roam freely nationwide, even after killing 37-year-old Renee Nicole Good in Minneapolis earlier today. Aisha Wallace-Palomares January 7, 2026 CULTURE L.A.’s Young Magicians Are Blowing Minds at Clubs, Pop Video Sets, and Taco Stands Today's budding magicians are trading college and 9 to 5s to work with Chappell Roan, raise money for cancer patients, and perform at Magic Castle, marking a comeback for magic tricks in 2026. 1 Comments Julianne Le January 7, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 See all posts\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 2: L.A. TACO - Celebrating The Taco Lifestyle in Los Angeles\nURL: https://lataco.com/\nWords: 632\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nWeekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours Izzy Ramirez FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate Javier Cabral ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity Aisha Wallace-Palomares CULTURE L.A.’s Young Magicians Are Blowing Minds at Clubs, Pop Video Sets, and Taco Stands 1 Comments Julianne Le Stay in touch Sign up for our free newsletter Email SIGN UP ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez ICE DAILY MEMO: Masked and Unmasked Agents Kidnap at Least Eight Around Southern California In First Weekend of 2026 During the first weekend of the year, agents targeted areas nearby a Dollar Tree, PetCo, and more common errand hotspots—even a Wienerschnitzel. Izzy Ramirez Support L.A. TACO Advertisement opens in a new tab. L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF FOOD Goodbye, Horses: Notorious Sunset Strip Restaurant Closes More Than Two Years Since Animal Abuse Controversy At its peak, Horses was doing more than 375 covers a night. Reservations were nearly impossible to snag. 3 Comments Lauren Bethke COMIX Sunday Taquitos #9: There Will Be Blood Stop us if you’ve heard this one before. Sunday Taquitos! Art by Ivan Ehlers. Ivan Ehlers FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Returns to Santa Maria for Fourth Day in a Row; At Least 40 Taken ICE agents were active in Santa Maria in the early morning, plus multiple sightings in Hemet, Thermal and Mecca. Izzy Ramirez See all posts News L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? Julianne Le Daily Memo: The Escalation Continues Before Christmas as ICE, HSI, and Border Patrol Set Record Raids Again Memo Torres, Izzy Ramirez, and Aisha Wallace-Palomares Tear Gas, Censorship, and Medical Neglect At The GEO Owned Adelanto ICE Processing Center Memo Torres Guides L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Lists and Guides of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Julianne Le L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Culture Stories of 2025 L.A. TACO STAFF The 25 Best L.A.-Centric Books Of 2025 Mike Sonksen Neighborhoods L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Lexis-Olivier Ray ‘Lead Contamination: An Old Foe Rises from the Ashes of the Eaton Fire,’ Live With Francois Tissot At Caltech’s Earnest C. Watson Lecture Series L.A. TACO STAFF\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 3: Guides to Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO\nURL: https://lataco.com/tag/guides\nWords: 488\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nGuides L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki January 6, 2026 FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF January 6, 2026 L.A. TACO GUIDES L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Lists and Guides of 2025 This year, L.A. TACO compiled unique lists and guides for our readers to deepen their appreciation for L.A. and the people in it. We shared our top picks for local independent businesses, ways to get involved within your community, and strategies for resisting ICE in Los Angeles. L.A. TACO STAFF December 30, 2025 FEATURED L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Most federal agents and officials would prefer for their actions to go unnoticed, but Memo Torres has dedicated nearly every single day of the past six months to documenting and exposing the often heinous and violent abductions taking place across Southern California. Julianne Le December 30, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Culture Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read culture stories of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 30, 2025 BOOKS The 25 Best L.A.-Centric Books Of 2025 While a book cannot stop evil forces, it can educate us, warn us, and prepare us for what’s coming. The books listed here not only meditate on current events like the Los Angeles wildfires, late stage capitalism, and rising xenophobia, they also reflect our vibrant local literary culture. Mike Sonksen December 30, 2025 NEWS L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 Our reporters were on the ground this past year conducting that street-level reporting necessary for showing what's really happening in our city. L.A. TACO STAFF December 29, 2025 FOOD L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Food Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read food features of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 23, 2025 SPONSORED The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World Metro's 57.6 mile-long A Line offers riders the chance to access foods from so many countries, regions, and cultures. We picked one favorite restaurant from every stop to guide you on an epic eating tour of Los Angeles. 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF December 19, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES The 24 Best Tamales In Los Angeles Banana leaf tamales, tamales filled with savory corn pudding, sweet tamales, and those that can only be described as \"unique.\" Los Angeles really is the best U.S. city for tamal season. L.A. TACO STAFF December 11, 2025 OLDER\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 4: Taco Reviews, News, and Stories ~ L.A. TACO\nURL: https://lataco.com/category/food/tacos\nWords: 534\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nTacos FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 TACOS L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . The Oscars of the taco world is going to a taquero who stood up for first responders and inspired us with words of compassion, all while serving a mean surf-and-turf taco in a masa wasteland. 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 22, 2025 TACO MEMBERS ONLY The 69 Best Tacos in Los Angeles, Ranked To live and eat tacos in Los Angeles. As the L.A.'s first and only publication dedicated to finding the best tacos, we are excited to present you all with this year's list. It's the guide to end all other taco guides and it is dedicated to our members who support us and to the best damn city in the world—complete with a map. Happy 69ing. TACOS FOREVER. 4 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 9, 2025 TACOS ICE Raids Delayed L.A.’s Best New Taquería From Opening In Silver Lake. Now It’s Finally Open. “How could I celebrate when people who feed our city couldn’t even work?” the owner of Taquería Frontera said amidst ICE's siege on L.A. Erick Galindo November 18, 2025 STREET VENDING I’m the Daughter of Taqueros—These Are the Lessons They Taught Me I’ll always jump at the opportunity to share that my parents are taqueros. It contextualizes so many crazy anecdotes and justifies my high standards for tacos. Some stories just need to be preceded with “Ok, so my parents sell tacos and … \" Alejandra Cid October 29, 2025 L.A. TACO GUIDES A Guide to The Best Bite at Every Spot in Mercado La Paloma Including one insider's tips for skipping the line at Holbox. Erick Galindo October 28, 2025 MEXICO Mexican Farmers Shut Down Highways In National Strike, Demanding Better Prices For Their Produce The dramatic actions—showing farmers at times dumping their limes and avocados—are a direct challenge to president Claudia Sheinbaum's administration, demanding an end to NAFTA flexibilities and other policies that farmers say are destroying their livelihoods. Javier Cabral October 17, 2025 TACOS Five Killer Tacos To Eat In L.A. On National Taco Day From puffy San Antonio-style tacos from a fine-dining chef to a a blue tortilla from freshly nixtamlized corn that just so happens to be topped in French fries, these are the L.A. tacos to celebrate with. L.A. TACO STAFF October 7, 2025 TACOS Tostadas Over Tasting Menus: Holbox Is North America’s Only 50 Best List Spot Found In a Food Court Amid ICE's terrorizing abductions in L.A.'s Brown-skinned communities, Holbox's #42 spot on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants is a monumental win for its formerly undocumented owner, chef Gilberto Cetina. His celebrated mariscos bar's affordable heirloom-corn tostadas under $20 now rival $100+ tasting menus, spotlighting immigrant grit and cultural resilience against erasure. Javier Cabral October 2, 2025 TACOS How Did Texas Get a Taco-Dispensing ATM Before L.A.? We're just mad we didn't think of it first. Hadley Tomicki September 18, 2025 OLDER\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 5: ICE Archives ~ L.A. TACO\nURL: https://lataco.com/category/ice\nWords: 507\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nICE ICE DAILY MEMO: Numerous Sightings of ICE and Border Patrol In Pomona and San Bernardino County in the Last 48 Hours There were 10 confirmed sightings of federal agents in Pomona on Thursday. Agents also snatched someone near Hollywood High School on Wednesday. Izzy Ramirez January 8, 2026 ICE Pasadena Community Job Center Director Speaks Out About Arrest While Observing Federal Immigration Activity “They didn’t stop the ICE agent, but they stopped me,” said Jose Madera, who followed a vehicle driven wrecklessly by ICE agents, who continue to roam freely nationwide, even after killing 37-year-old Renee Nicole Good in Minneapolis earlier today. Aisha Wallace-Palomares January 7, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Border Patrol Returns On Dia De Los Reyes, Taking at Least Eight in Orange County and Injuring Elderly Man In another incident, a vendor in Fountain Valley was released after being questioned and detained, but not before CBP called for help from paramedics to use bolt cutters to remove the handcuffs used on the vendor. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 ICE DAILY MEMO: Masked and Unmasked Agents Kidnap at Least Eight Around Southern California In First Weekend of 2026 During the first weekend of the year, agents targeted areas nearby a Dollar Tree, PetCo, and more common errand hotspots—even a Wienerschnitzel. Izzy Ramirez January 6, 2026 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Returns to Santa Maria for Fourth Day in a Row; At Least 40 Taken ICE agents were active in Santa Maria in the early morning, plus multiple sightings in Hemet, Thermal and Mecca. Izzy Ramirez December 30, 2025 FEATURED L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Daily Memos of 2025 Most federal agents and officials would prefer for their actions to go unnoticed, but Memo Torres has dedicated nearly every single day of the past six months to documenting and exposing the often heinous and violent abductions taking place across Southern California. Julianne Le December 30, 2025 FEATURED At Least 140 People Kidnapped in the 10 Days Leading up to Christmas Eve The data comes from community watch teams and rapid responders. This is the minimum number we’re able to confirm and doesn’t include all arrests and kidnappings, such as at ICE-Check In appointments, etc. Izzy Ramirez December 24, 2025 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: ICE Kidnaps Parents From San Bernardino, Riverside and Orange County the day before Christmas Eve Agents in Mecca detained a man inside a grocery store while agents in Fontana kidnapped two people from an apartment complex, among many others. Izzy Ramirez December 23, 2025 ICE The First National Website Dedicated To Documenting ICE License Plates Is Here “Something like the plate tracker helps to encourage and promote legal transparency and legal accountability, especially when they're going around, switching plates, trying to hide, trying to be undetectable,” said Sherman Austin. Aisha Wallace-Palomares December 23, 2025 FEATURED DAILY MEMO: San Bernardino ICE Raid Ends in Another Car Crash ICE once again focused its operations in the Inland Empire with a particular focus on San Bernardino. Other communities outside Los Angeles were also targeted. Izzy Ramirez December 22, 2025 OLDER\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 6: Food Archives ~ L.A. TACO\nURL: https://lataco.com/category/food\nWords: 480\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nFood FOOD Weekend Eats: Paneer Tacos, Hamburger Handrolls, and Orange Chicken Fries Are Here To Test Your New Year’s Resolutions Meanwhile, over 30 of L.A.'s best pizzerias are uniting to bake and deliver free pizza pies on Wednesday. Hadley Tomicki January 9, 2026 FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 L.A. TACO GUIDES Nine Places to Get to Know Venezuelan Food In L.A. These are L.A.'s nine best places for getting to know Venezuelan cooking, from its beloved arepas, tequeños, and cachapas, to its national dish of pabellón criollo. 3 Comments Hadley Tomicki January 6, 2026 FEATURED The Dark Origin of Rosca de Reyes, Plus the 10 Best In L.A. Eating a rosca de reyes is a way to beat the post-holiday blues. Here are where to find the best ones in L.A. and plus, the macabre origin of the religious holiday that involves murdering infants. L.A. TACO STAFF January 6, 2026 FOOD Goodbye, Horses: Notorious Sunset Strip Restaurant Closes More Than Two Years Since Animal Abuse Controversy At its peak, Horses was doing more than 375 covers a night. Reservations were nearly impossible to snag. 3 Comments Lauren Bethke January 5, 2026 FOOD Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? L.A.'s tamaleros say this holiday season Is pricier than ever. ICE raids, inflation, and tariffs are also cutting demand. Julianne Le December 23, 2025 FOOD L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Food Stories of 2025 These were L.A. TACO's most-read food features of the year. L.A. TACO STAFF December 23, 2025 TACOS L.A. TACO’s First Annual ‘Taquero of the Year Award’ Goes To . . . The Oscars of the taco world is going to a taquero who stood up for first responders and inspired us with words of compassion, all while serving a mean surf-and-turf taco in a masa wasteland. 1 Comments L.A. TACO STAFF December 22, 2025 SPONSORED The Longest Metro Food Crawl: 48 Great Spots to Eat Along the Longest Light Rail Line in the World Metro's 57.6 mile-long A Line offers riders the chance to access foods from so many countries, regions, and cultures. We picked one favorite restaurant from every stop to guide you on an epic eating tour of Los Angeles. 1 Comments Sean Vukan and L.A. TACO STAFF December 19, 2025 NEWS Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Skaf's general manager denied that they cut down the tree to make their restaurant's sign more visible from the street. Lexis-Olivier Ray December 19, 2025 OLDER\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 7: What Is L.A. TACO? ~ L.A. TACO\nURL: https://lataco.com/about\nWords: 469\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nWhat Is L.A. TACO? Glad you asked! L.A. TACO celebrates our Los Angeles. This is not the L.A. you see in the movies or on TV. L.A. TACO is an independently owned and operated media platform. We bring our loyal readers and paying members street-level news stories that often cover L.A.'s most marginalized communities, stories that other publications wouldn't dare cover or don't have the credibility to report on. We also feature profiles on L.A.'s underground culture and the everyday heroes who propel our fine city. All of this is anchored by our constantly updated database of the best taquerías and affordable places to eat in this vital, continually evolving metropolis. Our reporting serves L.A.'s working communities outside the confines of L.A.'s trendy neighborhoods, in neighborhoods far south of 10, east of the 710, and north of the 101. For 20 years, we have delivered raw, street-level journalism from all corners of L.A. County to our loyal readers, supporters, members, and advertising partners who share our passion for Los Angeles. L.A. TACO was founded in 2006, stemming from a simple desire to document the things we love about the city (mostly tacos, weed, and graffiti at the time). We coined the term 'Taco Lifestyle' to summarize our philosophy towards experiencing Los Angeles and its vast communities, inspired by the street food that unifies everybody in this city. No matter where you are from and how much this city changes, the one constant will always be tacos and the desire to know where to find the best ones, whether you're a resident or a visitor. Over the years, the site has built a passionate community of readers, members, and contributors who keep the site and its spirit alive. We also organize events for the community, like our annual TACO MADNESS and Birriamania food festivals. We also have our own app to help you find the best tacos vetted by us and closest to you in real time! In 2018, L.A. TACO relaunched as a news-centric platform, bringing our readers an alternative style of hyper-local city coverage. In 2020, L.A. TACO received the first-ever Emerging Voice Award from the James Beard Foundation for our food coverage, which touches on deeper elements around food such as social justice, representation, and immigration. If you love our stuff and are down for our vision of Los Angeles, we invite you to join us and become a paying member to help keep the L.A. TACO dream alive. Our members are the reason we have been able to continue redefining local journalism. Where else will you get free tacos and drinks while helping keep this city's most powerful people accountable? Invest or partner with us, pitch us a story, like us on your socials, and keep checking back for more. Meet Our Team | Contact Us\n\n\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\nPAGE 8: Local News for Los Angeles ~ L.A. TACO\nURL: https://lataco.com/category/news\nWords: 522\n────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────\n\nNews FOOD ‘It’s Colonizing All Over Again:’ Chefs and Tortilleros React to California’s Fortified Tortilla Mandate A new California law, penned by a Fresno assemblyman, mandates folic acid in corn tortillas to curb birth defects in Latina women—rattling L.A.'s taco universe. Tortilla makers in California, who have followed the same 12,000 year-old recipe, now must add a synthetic vitamin... but not all are complying. Javier Cabral January 8, 2026 NEWS L.A. TACO’s Most-Read Investigations and News Stories of 2025 Our reporters were on the ground this past year conducting that street-level reporting necessary for showing what's really happening in our city. L.A. TACO STAFF December 29, 2025 FOOD Corn Husk Prices Keep Climbing, But Who Profits? L.A.'s tamaleros say this holiday season Is pricier than ever. ICE raids, inflation, and tariffs are also cutting demand. Julianne Le December 23, 2025 NEWS Daily Memo: The Escalation Continues Before Christmas as ICE, HSI, and Border Patrol Set Record Raids Again In another record setting week, not only have the raids and kidnappings escalated, but so has the recklessness. The week saw more car chases, accidents, children placed in danger and separated from parents, more people detained and released, and new areas of Southern California targeted heavier than before like Antelope and Coachella Valleys. Memo Torres, Izzy Ramirez, and Aisha Wallace-Palomares December 19, 2025 NEWS Tear Gas, Censorship, and Medical Neglect At The GEO Owned Adelanto ICE Processing Center These are some of the horror stories detainees risk telling visitors in fear of guard retaliation. Memo Torres December 19, 2025 NEWS Skaf’s On York Accused of Being ‘Gentrifiers’ After Illegally Cutting Down 50-Year-Old Tree Outside Restaurant Skaf's general manager denied that they cut down the tree to make their restaurant's sign more visible from the street. Lexis-Olivier Ray December 19, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: ICE And Border Patrol Spotted In 18 Cities Taking Street Vendors, Construction Workers, and Crashing Into Vehicles While Chasing People ICE and Border Patrol took, that we know of, somewhere around 19 to 25 people today from at least 18 neighborhoods and cities they were present in, including San Bernardino, Riverside, Highland, Palm Springs, Rialto, Thousand Oaks, Simi Valley, San Diego, Anaheim, Santa Ana, Lancaster, Palmdale, Antelope Valley, and Victor Ville which was all ICE today. While Border Patrol raided through Arcadia, El Monte, Temple City, and Rosemead. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 17, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: Federal Agents Ram Truck Into Fleeing Man Before Abducting Him Border Patrol is back after a week break. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 16, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: CBP MIA In Recent ICE Raids; LA County Approves Mask Ban A breakdown of California and Los Angeles County's new laws banning ICE and local law enforcement from wearing masks or concealing their identity and agencies. Memo Torres and Izzy Ramirez December 10, 2025 FEATURED Daily Memo: ICE Continues Targeting Courthouses and Detains Another U.S. Citizen Border Patrol was seemingly absent today, except for a raid at the Lemon Grove Home Depot. Meanwhile, ICE and HSI targeted courthouses and Santa Barbara neighborhoods, taking another U.S. citizen today. Izzy Ramirez December 9, 2025 OLDER\n\n",
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